The 2019 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is first vintage where winemaker Alessandro Noli has 100% responsibility and so the buck stops with him. Firstly that dialling down of new wood was the correct decision because already it is seamlesly entwined within the aromatics, allowing the quite plush Dorset plum, bilberry and light estuarine aromas to flourish from the glass. Impressive delineation here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, very well judged acidity, great harmony from the start. Good salinity, that saltiness leaving a residues on the tongue and leaves it tingling and it feels reassuringly persistent. I think this is a great success for Noli and doubtless it will age well over the next 25-30 years. Welcome to the new Clos de Tart.

The 2019 Clos de Tart Grand Cru took some time to cohere on the nose and obliged aeration in my glass. But it coalesces nicely with blackberry, briary, wild heather and crushed stone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a earthy, spicy, slightly minty entry. Fine grip, very fresh towards the finish with a dash of white pepper and lingers long in the mouth. Excellent.