As ever, this is a smile and share Chardonnay from Will Berliner, with evident depths and beauty. The grip and tension are clear on the opening beats, and this tingles through the palate. Apricot pit, yellow peaches, sun-ripened, a little fleshy compared to the normal razor sharp character of this wine, but the sage, fennel and aniseed spice notes bring everything together, and sharper angles emerge with a short time in the glass. Skilful winemaking in a dry vintage, with hot weather meaning an early harvest from February 5 to 10. 3.49ph.