Axel Heinz turning out yet again a wine that is generous and moreish but that goes deeper, offering layers of coffee, smoked herbs, rosemary, saffron, gentle waves of powerful brambled fruits. Mouthwatering, with tension and precision. Finely spun tannin that are elastic in embracing and taming the exuberant fruits yet chewy enough on the finish to show there is plenty of ageing ability ahead. Makes a big impression and yet has that Italian ability to be gulpable at the same time. A more elegant, moreish version of Merlot than you get in the biggest Pomerols, but every bit as beautiful. 11ha.

Concentrated but tender, opulent and silky, with depth and freshness to the blueberry and raspberry fruits, all laid over with espresso and saffron notes. I love the elegance of this wine, and it really leapt out of the glass once we tasted it again over lunch. Sculpted and attractive, this vintage showcases Masseto as a great European wine, with all the nuance and beauty that entails. Not as concentrated as some years but fragrant, enticing and incredibly moreish, showing the benefit of old vines. 100% new oak.

The 2018 Masseto is going to be an absolute thrill for readers who follow this iconic Bolgheri Merlot. Silky, mid-weight and supremely gracious, the 2018 reminds me of the 2004 in its aromatic intensity and classic, refined feel. Inky red/purplish fruit, cedar, lavender, espresso, sage and mint are some of the many aromas and flavors that develop with time in the glass. There is so much to like here. More than anything else, I am struck by how ripe and well balanced the tannins are, something that is rare for Masseto, especially in the early going, when the wine can be a bit burly.As was the case throughout Tuscany, the 2018 Masseto is the product of a cool year with a fair amount of rain in August. The 2018 was made from all of the key vineyard plots, minus the young vine replants. It is the first vintage made at the estate’s new winery, which is equipped with concrete fermenters that allow for more flexibility in extraction. Aging was 24 months in French oak, 100% new.

The 2018 Masseto is silky, pliant and wonderfully expressive. Here, too, readers will find a wine of real sophistication, with less of the bombastic intensity of some previous editions. Blackberry jam, chocolate, leather, licorice and new leather all flesh out nicely in the glass. Masseto has an extraordinary track record of aging. In fact, some of the more reticent vintages end up being the most complex and satisfying to drink in time. That's where I think the 2018 is headed.