The 2020 Le Gay needs a little coaxing from the glass, but responds with blackberry, bilberry, pressed iris and subtle brine scents that gain intensity with aeration; the oak is very well integrated. The medium-bodied palate features fine, grainy tannins and beautiful, very pure black fruit tinged with licorice. Superb delineation toward the finish, which fans out with style. This is a wonderful Pomerol, Le Gay fulfilling its potential as one of Pomerol’s dark horses. Superb.

Coffee bean, blackberry and cocoa powder, with grip, confidence and powerful slate crushed rock. A yield of 35hl/ha, vinified in new oak barrels. Henri Parent owner (he also, by the way, bought an organic truffle orchard in the Dordogne in this vintage), Michel Rolland consultant. Expect levels of Cabernet Franc to rise over the next few years.

The 2020 Le Gay offers up a heady concoction of blackberry jam, chocolate, spice, licorice and new oak. Inky and deep, with tremendous sheer textural opulence, this is one of the most explosive, intense Pomerols readers will come across. A delicious wine, but not subtle in any way.